Procida is one of the Flegrean Islands off the coast of Naples in southern Italy. The island is between Cape Miseno and the island of Ischia. With its tiny satellite island of Vivara, it is a comune of the Metropolitan City of Naples, in the region of Campania.
If you're a veteran of the Amalfi Coast and the nearby Islands and you've never been to Procida, you just may want to give it a shot someday?
Procida, a tiny spot of land in the Bay of Naples, might be best known as the island between Ischia and Capri. But in late January, it was named Italy’s Capital of Culture for 2022, beating nine other candidates—a mix of cities and small towns—and becoming the first island to ever be granted the title.
Under two square miles in total, the island has mostly flown under the tourist radar (except in July and August, when many Neapolitans come here for their summer vacations), overshadowed by its better-known siblings. This is all despite its big-screen moments—Procida has served as the set of The Talented Mr. Ripley and Il Postino—and the fact that it features the same pastel houses, cafes-lined marinas, and narrow streets as its bigger counterparts, but also historic sites, wild nature, and near-empty beaches.
PROCIDA
The PORT
HOW to GET THERE
Procida lies 14 miles off the coast of Naples. There are daily ferries and hydrofoils leaving from two of the city’s piers, Molo Beverello and Porta di Massa, as well as from Pozzuoli, just north of Naples. Depending on the ride—the faster hydrofoil or the slower ferry—you’ll get to the island in 40 minutes to 1 hour. You can also travel from Ischia—that’s a 15- to 25-minute journey.
WHAT to SEE
Arriving at Marina Grande, Procida’s main tourist port, you’ll see a cluster of traditional houses along the waterfront, each one painted in vivid shades of pink, yellow, orange, red, and blue—traditionally a way for fishermen to identify them from their boats.
Via Roma, Procida’s main street, is right around the corner from the port, and a good spot for lunch—especially at La Medusa, which has been around since 1954. Before you move on, stop for an espresso at Bar Roma and make sure to order lingua di suocera (‘mother-in-law’s tongue’), Procida’s traditional puff pastry filled with lemon custard. Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pietà , an 18th-century church with an iconic baroque belfry, and the lemon-yellow church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, built in 1679, are also nearby and worth a visit.
From here, it’s a 15-minute walk uphill (then downhill) to Marina Corricella, Procida’s oldest fishing village. Only reachable on foot or by boat, the area is one of the best places to stay for a taste of slow island living, and is full of restaurants—Caracale, La Lampara, Il Pescatore, to name a few—gelato shops like Chiaro di Luna, and bars.
At the opposite end of the island, Marina Chiaiolella is another fishing village with great eateries (try Da Mariano and Lido Vivara), craft boutiques, and old-school bakeries—not to mention access to one of the island’s most popular beaches, spiaggia della Chiaiolella, known for its sunsets.
Terra Murata, the fortified medieval stronghold at the highest and northernmost tip of the island, is another highlight. A tumble of skinny lanes and crumbling houses, this is Procida’s most historical center, home to Abbazia San Michele Arcangelo, which honors Procida’s patron saint, and Palazzo D’Avalos, a 16th-century palace that was the former residence of the island’s governing family. In 1830 the building was converted into a prison that eventually closed in 1988. Two viewpoints here offer the island’s most panoramic vistas: Corricella in all its candy-colored glory to the west; and the Gulf of Naples, with Capri in the distance, to the east.
Village of Corrocella
On the opposite coast from Marina Grande, in the southern part of the island, there here is a place that no guide on “what to see in Procida” will ever forget.
The seaside village of Corricella is simply suggestive and lively at the same time. It is the classic fishermen village animated by bars, restaurants and small craft shops where you can buy the most typical souvenirs, which anyone who comes to Procida cannot avoid to love and photograph.
Here you can stroll among the fishermen’s nets, admiring the very old colourful houses and deeply breathing the sea in the air.
The BEACHES
Among Procida’s most scenic beaches are Pozzo Vecchio, whose black sands were made famous in Il Postino; spiaggia Chiaia, to the east, which overlooks Ischia and features clear, shallow waters and a backdrop of rocky cliffs (plus the excellent seafood restaurant La Conchiglia); and Ciraccio, the longest and most secluded. Further down, the spiaggia della Chiaiolella is another gem, though slightly more frequented, especially in the late afternoon, when its stabilimenti (beach clubs with rows of sunbeds and umbrellas) start rolling out aperitivo.
This “poor” version of seafood spaghetti contains just anchovies, cherry tomatoes, and a dusting of Pecorino Cheese.
Luveri al sale
The waters of Procida abound with Pagello fish, which locals call luvero. The most popular way to cook this sea bream is in a salt crust (al sale) with some herbs.
Coniglio alla Procidana
In addition to the sea, locals have also sourced food from the island’s terroir. Procida, like Ischia, has a signature rabbit dish, usually prepared with cherry tomatoes, garlic, rosemary, olive oil, and white wine.
Calamari Ripieni
Recipes vary, but the Procidani usually slip anchovies into their filling for stuffed squid.
Pizza di Procida
As Procida is just a 40-minute ferry ride from Naples, it should come as no surprise that the island's pizzaioli emulate the wood-fired style of the world's pizza capital.
Tortano con i carciofi
Especially popular around Easter, this savory bread is stuffed with artichokes and, at times, sausage.
Procida is famous for its lemons, which are larger and sweeter than other varieties. The Procidani prepare them in dozens of sweet and savory recipes, and a signature dolce is the Lingue di Procida, or tongues of Procida, lemon-flavored, cream-filled pastries.
L’insalata di limone
Speaking of lemons, the lemon salad with mint, garlic, crushed red chili pepper, garlic and olive oil makes for an airy, refreshing start to any meal.
The San Michele in Corricella, has 12 tastefully decorated rooms done in earthy tones and minimalist design. A similar aesthetic is found in its slightly bigger sister property La Suite, a stylish accommodation near Ciraccio that comes with a pool, a garden, and striking views.
In Chiaiolella, the three-star Hotel Ristorante Crescenzo is a popular choice not just for its simple, brightly colored rooms but its pizzeria, one of the most famous in Procida. La Vigna in a beautifully restored farmstead within a vineyard that overlooks the Bay of Naples, delivers charm and tranquility.
I first started gong to Capri in the Summer of 1986. I was a young man in my early 20s, and travel was so much different than it is now. First off, there was no internet back then, No Expedia, no Booking.com , to check out info on anything or anyplace, no Whatsapp to send text and talk on the phone for Free anywhere in the World. You couldn't look up and buy Airline Tickets by yourself, you had to go through a Travel Agent, or purchase a plane ticket directly from the airline. You only info came from your own personal research from books and magazine articles, past experiences, and advice and info from friends.
Back then in 1986 and before, most people if they were traveling to Italy, to Capri, or anywhere in the World would buy Travel Guide Books, like Baedekers, Fodors, Frommer Guides, and any number of Travel Guide Books available at the time. Rick Steves was just starting out back then, and I did buy his Europe Through The Back Door guide book, along with Europe on $40 a Day, which was my main source at the time. When it came to finding accommodations. Typically, for any place that you were traveling too : Rome, Paris, etc., there would be info on the main attractions to see, how to get around, restaurant suggestions, and a list of hotel accommodations in 3 price categories : of Budget Hotels, Moderate Priced, and Luxury Hotels.
With my Frommer's Guide in had, on this my second trip to Italy, I got my hotel in Rome from the Frommer's recommendation, and I looked up budget hotels in Capri. There was I think only 2 under the budget range as I recall. I picked the Villa Tosca at $40 a night. So they way I did it back then, I had my list of budget , I get into town, and either go to the property or give them a call from a cafe or on a payphone somewhere, when I got to my destination.
So the first time I went to Capri, I took the ferry boat, and when I arrived in Marina Grande, Capri, and got off the boat, and walked down the dock, and once I came across a payphone, I gave them a call at Villa Tosca. I asked if they had any rooms available? They did. They asked me where I was. I told them that I had juts gotten off the ferry boat and was down by the port. They told me to take the Funicular up to Capritown, and when I got off, just walk straithgt through the Piazza and then down toward the Hotel Quisisana The hotel was behind the Quisisana. Just walk the alleyway alongside the hotel and I would come across a sign that pointed to the Villa Tosca. And so I did.
When I got off of the Funicular, I spotted a cute little Lemonade Stand (Lemon Granita). It was hot out, and I couldn't resist. I got a Lemonade. Best Lemonade I've ever had. It was cold and refreshing, and I Loved it. The Lemonade Stand is still there in the Piazzetta. The only difference is that instead of less than a dollar for a Lemonade, the now (2022) cost a Whopping $5 ..
I walked down toward the Quisisana. It came into view. A beautiful Grand Old Hotel. I walked down the pathway, and right before the Via Augustus. I saw the sign and followed the pathway. I came to it, Villa Tosca, which back then was a simple pensione. Today it is no longer called Villa Tosca. It is owned by the same family, but a few years back, the son turned it into a nice little boutique hotel and changed the name to "La Tosca" (hotel). I gave them my Passport, then checked into my room. It was late afternoon. I left Rome in the morning, bound for Naples Central Station. I arrived about 3 hours later. I walked outside the train station, and found the bus that went to the Porto. I hopped on, and arrived about 15 minutes later. Got on the ferry and went to Capri, and now I'm at my little hotel. I took a shower, got dressed and went out. I had seen the Faraglioni from my balcony. I went out on the main terrazzo of the hotel and just starred at them. The Faraglioni were beckining my to them, and I just started walking toward them. The walk along the Via Tragara was gorgeous. I passed all the beautiful villas along the way. Villas owned by Valentino, Armani, Sophia Loren and others with the means to own them. I loved it. When I got down to the end of the Via Tragara, I saw another Lemonade Stand. I got one. This little old lemonade stand is still there. Same story, a Lemonade has gone from $1 to 5. I could see the Faraglioni. They were Gorgeous. I walked down the path, getting one beautiful view after the other. I was mesmerized. One of the most beautiful sights of my life. I walked all the way down, taking pictures along the way.
The first beach I ever swam at was Marina Piccolo, way back on that 1st trip in 1986. I met a couple girls from South Africa, and the 3 of us went to the beach there. It was great, and it started my Caari Ritual of going swimming on Capri (any beach) then catching a bus back to Capritown, getting off the bus, and heading straight to Bar Tiberio in the Piazza Umberto for some afternoon Aperitivo of Campari, Negroni s, Lemonade, or glass of local wine.
If I was at Da Luigi Beach Club, I'd take the boat from Da Luigi to Marina Piccolo, and pick up the bus to Capritown at the Little Chapel at Marina Piccolo. I Love Da Luigi, not only one of my favorite swim spots on Capri, but one of my favorite places in the entire World to go swimming. It's gorgeous. Right there smack-dab next to the famed Faraglioni Rocks of Capri. When I went there in 2015, I started a new ritual whereby I go to the Salumeria Capri (by the bus station Capritown) to get a nice Beach Lunch to bring with me to Da Luigi. I usually get a Arancini (Rice Ball) some Eggpant Parmigiana, a bottle of Mineral Water, and a small bottle of local Red Wine, usually Aglianico. I love it. They make really good food at Saluneria Capri, and I go there often for Arancini, Panini, water and Wine when I'm on Capri.
I'm not normally a beach person, nut when I'm on Capri, I Love to go swimming. It so refreshing, and I like it. When I go into the water, I usually stay in for 15 to 20 minutes at a time. Same in Positano. I just swim out and float, and have a wonderful time. I love swimming out, and just lie floating on my back and look at the cliffs as the shoot out of the Sea, soaring to heights of 2,000 and 3,000 feet above the Sea. It's quite a dramatic sight on Capri, or if I'm swimming in Positano, the views as you float in the water, looking back to the island, is mesmerizing. "I Love it"
I was surprised when I decided one day to swim at the beach at Marina Grande one day, I think it was 2019. I had always thought that it would be too crowded and maybe the water over there. It wasn't. In fact it was quite clean, and I had a great time swimming there. I swam there, again on my most recent trip, in the Spring of 2022. It was the middle of May, and it was not hot out. It was a bit chilly, but I wanted to swim. "I'm not going to Capri, and not swim. Mo way." I decided to head over to the Beach at Marina Grande. When I got there, there were people at the beach, but not even 1 person was swimming, no one at all. I staked out my territory, and put my swim trunks that were in my backpack on. I just took off my pants. I had underwear on, so I wasn't indecent. I put on my trunks. There were 3 people together there hanging-out next to me. I asked them to watch my stuff. "OK," they said. I started walking into the water with my new swim shoes. They guy told me, "Ne careful. Be careful of the Rock." I knew what he meant, There are a lot of rocks there, and you have to be careful not to fall and hit yourself on the rock. You could really get hurt if you didn't pay attention. You could get hurt bad. Yes there was a bit of danger. I was careful. The water felt slightly cold, and I almost didn't go in, saying to myself, well, "It's good enough if you just wade in the water." But no, finally, I decided to go for it, and I jumped in fully. "It was wonderful." Once I got in, the water was fine. It wasn't cold at all. I loved it. I swam for a full 20 minutes before getting out. I knew it was 20 minutes, because I had my Sturghling Coca Cola GMT Dive Watch on. It worked. The watch was waterproof. I was willing to take a chance with that watch in the water, but not my much more expensive Bulova Dive Watch that I purchased recently, and is my new favorite watch since I got it. Love it. It's a really beautiful watch dive watch, a Bulova Oceanographer, with a Red & Black Bezel, similar to a Rolex GMT Master.
The next day, (May 16,2022) I swam again. This time at Marina Piccolo. A place I love to swim. I walked all the way down from my room at Casa Raiolo, I walked down to Due Golfi, and then down the pathway to Marina Piccolo. It took about 35 minutes, It was a nice walk, and I stopped and took another picture at the Capri Sign that's down there. I took a nice picture there in 2015, and wanted to get another one here on my Capri Trip 2022. I asked a passerby to take my picture. He was an American and he took his time taking the picture. "Thanks whoever you are." I staked my spot, asked some people to watch my stuff and went in. It was a bit chilly, but unlike yesterday, there were other people swimming in the water. I dove in. Damn, it was cold. Colder than yesterday. I thought maybe if I swam out to another spot further out, it might be warmer. I was right. I swam and floated around, had a great time, doing my usual thing. It was great. I swam for 20 minutes, with my Sturghling Diver Watch on, then got out. Another great time swimming off Capri. "I'm The American Champ on Capri." I don't think many more Americans have spent more time swimming around Capri than me. "Seriously, it's probably true." Anyway?
This was my 4th time staying on The Isle of Capri, not including the one time I went just for the day in 2019. I had a great time swimming and hanging around Capri that day, taking the ferry back and forth from Naples, a thing most people who say they've been to Capri say. But that's not seeing Capri. You have to stay a minimum of two days, and 3 would be better. You've not really seen Capri, if you haven't stayed there. Yes I know it's a bit expensive? But go anyway. Make it the splurge part of your trip. "I do."
Enjoy a full-day trip to Capri with an expert guide
Tour the island by boat and on foot
See everything the island of Capri has to offer on a full-day excursion by boat with an expert guide. Enjoy a small-group experience along with the perfect combination of a guided tour and free time to explore.
Get picked up at the Parking Mandara in Positano and head to the port of Piano di Sorrento.
Set off on a comfortable and elegant boat along the Sorrento coast to Capri.
Along the way, you'll pass the ancient fishing village, Marina Grande, and the ruins of a Roman villa near Bagni della Regina Giovanna. You'll also get to admire lovely rock formations and waterfalls.
Upon arrival to Capri, tour the island first by boat, making stops at the Marvelous Grotto, the White Grotto, and the Green Grotto, admiring the Natural Arch, the Villa Curzio Malaparte, the Faraglioni rocks, and the Lighthouse of Punta Carena along the way.
Enjoy a couple of stops for swimming and snorkeling, and a relaxing break with snacks and drinks on board. Next, it's time to tour the island on foot, with 3 to 5 hours to do as you please.
Your departure from Capri will be bittersweet – literally because you're invited to a Limoncello tasting before you board the boat.
